I’m back, I’m back! Well, actually I’ve been back since last Wednesday…but it’s been full on. We hit the ground running. So much has happened, with so much to tell that I’ve been stalling in the starting; consequently everything has backed-up into enormous unwieldy stacks. (I have a great analogy, but do forgive its bucolic nature. Sometimes when a freshly calved cow first comes into milk her udder becomes severely engorged. The pressure is so great it prevents the milk from flowing through the teat freely; the newborn calf finds it difficult to get milk out so stops sucking, exacerbating the problem. One needs to completely strip the affected quarters out, release the pressure, relax the valves and start again…so, that’s where I am – just about to begin the stripping out and trying to establish a smooth seamless written flow!)
Leaving the farm at any time of year is difficult, but during the second half of June it’s particularly so as I’m generally gearing up for haylage and hay making. Following the last two diabolical wet weather years I’m even more jittery than usual. Ideally I need to make enough good quality first-cut haylage before the end of June to allow sufficient growth for a second cut at the end of August. So before we left I’d had long searching talks with my contractors, and it was decided that they would go ahead with haylaging if the weather set fair.
We left chaotically early in the morning. Matt and Clare, our friends, had kindly moved in to look after the farmhouse, dogs and stock.
The journey to France was as uneventful as any journey could be herding a large gaggle of adults and children. Arrived at Avignon, we successfully sorted out hire cars and proceeded to our B & B (a large beautifully dishevelled bastide) with the aid of God (our purposely acquired satnav). It was stunningly hot, 36C or so the car said, and humid…new babies, new mums and super-hyped three year olds were feeling the strain.

the front of the bastide where we were staying...our apartment was down on the left
The Madam de la domaine could speak not a stitch of English but ‘understood’ my expressive gesticulating and stuttering franglaise. This prompted her to talk to me fast and in great depth about all things. I gathered we were short of a room…but she could possibly help out, otherwise we were going to have to double-up in the apartment. Swift instructions were given as to where the supermarche was, the boulangerie, the butcher, the gasoline, the candlestick maker; everything in fact we could wish for.

our apartment at the domain de vallbrillant
I returned to the family who were exploring our apartment. From the shady gravelled courtyard a pair of imposing french doors led into a large spacious living area where an enormous covered pool table acted as a multi-use surface for everything from cooking, eating, sorting, storing to baby changing…leading off this were the bedrooms, architecturally intriguing but unfortunately for us Anglo-Saxons completely dark and windowless! We came to the conclusion that this whole area under the main bastide must have once served as a store or kitchens. From the courtyard we looked down over lawns to an impressive soft-yellow sandstone surround swimming pool. The gardens were bordered by ripe barely fields bleached to wheaten paleness, with a small wooded hill beyond. To the left we had the most stunning views of St Victoire, Cezanne’s mountain, ever-changing from the softest dove grey through washed-out blues into rose quartz pink, magenta and deep palettes of purple.

St Victoire - the intense brightness has unfortuneately killed the photo somewhat
Robert, Olly and I made our way to the shops indicated by Madame to find food for supper and stock up on basics. Still hot even though it was early evening, roads and buildings shimmered, the sound of cicadas swelled as we passed roadside trees and bushes, the smell of sun-baked earth and astringent herbs filled our nostrils. It was so different, so very different from the damp, tangled greenness of Locks Park.


14 comments
Comments feed for this article
July 2, 2009 at 10:45 am
Jane
Oooo is sounds gorgeous. I’m just off to Southern Brittany for 2 weeks. Renting a cottage with 10 acres of lakes and hidden fields full of grass snakes, lizards, owls, insects and bats! Bliss. Can’t wait to smell the smells and feel the warmth of France (although we aren’t doing too badly here with that!). Love your descriptions. Hope they made a start on your haylage. Can’t wait for the next exciting episode! Is it good to be home? J x
July 7, 2009 at 9:12 pm
paula
Hi…oh and bye! Have a fab time in Brittany.
Yes haylage done, topping almost up to date, dung spreading this week then cow palace mucking out…breath, breath and breath. I’ll catch up soon and yes it’s good to be back. xx
July 2, 2009 at 2:52 pm
elizabethm
You’re back. I have been wondering how you got on in France. That place looks just beautiful so hope that despite the heat and the difficulty of leaving the farm you managed to have a good time.
It feels as hot as the south of France here today. I have had to give up working on the veg garden and come inside!
July 7, 2009 at 9:18 pm
paula
Hasn’t it been just glorious? You see the polytunnel’s done its bit and given us the good summer!
My kiwi family went yesterday after six hectic weeks. Shall try and get on with updates, visiting blogs and becoming communicable again. Phew, it’s been rather a marathon!
Have you enjoyed the rain? I have – such a difference from last year!
July 2, 2009 at 5:00 pm
Mopsa
Welcome home! Want to hear all about it. Hope it was entirely wondrous and delicious and fabulous and ….you know!
July 7, 2009 at 9:21 pm
paula
Big big breath! Yes, I think some kind of sanity is returning. Tripping over my tongue in the excitement of the telling! Will give chapter and verse very soon!
July 2, 2009 at 9:48 pm
throughstones
the landscape sounds just fabulous – made me feel quite homesick though it is many many years since i have been in Provence. Dreams of sipping Pastis outside the village café late into the evening, surrounded by the scent of lavender and a chorus of cicadas. Looking forward to more news!!
July 7, 2009 at 9:25 pm
paula
Fabulous, different, but strangely busy and industrial. We didn’t have time to explore, though did visit Picasso’s chateau around the other side of the mountain; walked and picked wild lavender.
July 3, 2009 at 8:59 pm
Sian
Welcome Home! We missed you! Your first installment has me wanting more! Sounds glorious (apart from the windowless bedrooms….). More soon please!!
July 7, 2009 at 9:28 pm
paula
Thank you lovely person! At last I’ve managed to write the second instalment as my wonderful electric family have returned to New Zealand and time has become little more generous…ish!
July 4, 2009 at 4:28 am
Kari
Welcome back. Was this the wedding you went for? I look forward to reading more. (Loved the description of Cezanne’s mountain … sigh.
July 7, 2009 at 9:33 pm
paula
Hi Kari I’m now truly back – well for a few weeks at least before the next invasion of family!
You would have loved the Picasso/Cezanne exhibition and Picasso’s chateau too…not enough time to really explore though as yes, you’re right, this was my eldest son’s wedding.
July 5, 2009 at 3:52 pm
heidi
Welcome home you Anglo -Saxon you! It all sounds gorgeous and amazing. I would have died to see the barley field nodding in the summer heat, the mountain, all of it. The apartment looks old and maybe cool inside? That would have been nice to escape the heat of day. Having our own heat wave here, so your description was hitting close to home. Complete with cicadas singing in the trees..
So glad your’e back! Can’t wait to hear the rest of your adventures in Provence, and the big wedding!
July 7, 2009 at 9:42 pm
paula
Hello and hail keeper of the old ways! Yes I’m back and oh so full of things to do in this summer, real summer, we’re having (see the polytunnel trick worked!). Sounds as if you’re having a proper summer too.
For some reason the apartment wasn’t that cool, though the weather became less hot after the Friday. You should have seen the barley fields in the moonlight – extraordinary – very different from ours.
Hopefully I’ll get my old routine back over the next few day as at the minute I feel rather snowed under after six hectic weeks.
Part two just posted…