I have a wild passion for the north Devon and adjacent Cornish coast. I farmed, twenty years or so ago, on a bleak windswept moor overlooking Lundy and the Atlantic. During this time the boys (my sons) and I explored every wind-blasted ridge, each hidden, veiled, greenly-secret valley; walked along peregrine-lifting cliff tops and discovered unknown coves. We collected driftwood from winter storms, and, against a backdrop of wild seas and towering rock faces, would make a fire and cook sausages - sizzling, spitting hot - and bake, deep in the glowing ashes, black charcoal-crisp potatoes. Never, ever, will food taste better than it did then. We, all of us, nurture a hunger, a need for the raw, shattered beauty of the place.

Yesterday our walk enfolded much of this. A valley, opening up to spring with tender shoots of dog’s mercury, primroses, wild daffodils and strokes of snowdrops. Buds swelling; hazel catkins, tremulous and quivering; soft, silky puffs of pussy willow and our first butterfly – a comma. Following a stream we come to ‘my’ oak – a friend for over twenty years, he pulses with a warm strong heart beat, extraordinary in the strength and length of his entwined limbs. Recently I’ve felt he is beginning to diminish: I hope I’m mistaken. On down to the coast; layer upon layer of squeezed strata erupted in the birth of a dragon, the coast line littered with the detritus of his crowning. The bass rumble of the seas pounding, turning rock galaxies with an energy immense – suddenly swallowed, stilled by the soft edge of the dragon’s bed. The last part of our walk takes us inland again, up cool hart’s-tongue lanes enclosed by wind-bowed withy, to the Old Smithy.




12 comments
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February 12, 2008 at 9:21 am
elizabethm
wonderful photographs and fabulous description. I alsoloved teh wold daffodils in the post below.
February 12, 2008 at 9:22 am
elizabethm
sorry, this is what happens if you try to touch type!
February 12, 2008 at 12:34 pm
paula
I think it’s rather fine - gives a whole new dimension on letters…excellent!
I’m glad you enjoyed the description - it’s such a special place. Robert took a photo of me some years ago communing with the oak tree - maybe I’ll put it up.
February 12, 2008 at 12:48 pm
mary
I too liked it Paula. It reminded me of Stanley Unwin. My typing looks like that. I spend more time correcting than typing espcially with my spacebar which doesn’t make a space unless I thump it.
I do love the oak tree and your special place - thank you for sharing it with us. It sounds magical and your expressive (I nearly said espresso) comments allow us to almost be there. The oak tree, male I notice which is nice as most non human things are made feminine, is wonderful. Has he become so contorted dealing with the winds and storms or do you think he has a special gene like witchhazels and hazels?
February 12, 2008 at 1:26 pm
paula
I’m so un-fluent in my typing- it’s a two finger job, sometimes four. Slow and ponderous…
Such a special place and such a special oak, yes, and it’s a pleasure sharing it with you. He’s like that as he can’t go up due to the strong Atlantic winds and somehow he’s managed to grow outward, enormously so.
There are several special places along the coast and on Dartmoor where there are woodlands of miniaturised oaks, due to weather condition - the Dizzard on the coast, Whistmans wood and Blacktor copse on Dartmoor. You really do feel like Alice in Wonderland having taken a growing-larger potion, or that you’ve wandered into a mythical place.
February 12, 2008 at 2:14 pm
Jane
Your oak is amazing. I wonder how long it has been there, stunted and twisted by the weather. What an amazing and fascinating landscape. Jane
February 12, 2008 at 3:38 pm
mary
I think that you and Rilke agree Paula. I saw this on an American site called Harpers which is mostly political but Scott Horton puts on some beautiful images, and links to literature and poetry as well.
http://harpers.org/archive/2008/02/hbc-90002319
February 12, 2008 at 10:14 pm
paula
I don’t know Jane…I would like to think forever. It’s strange how warm he always is to touch - Robert thought I was being fanciful until he felt it for himself.
I just hope I’m wrong about feeling he’s fading a little nowadays - but then maybe that’s how we are when we’re very ancient.
February 12, 2008 at 10:24 pm
paula
I think you’re right Mary - I’ve just read the translation through a couple of times - and yes, you’re right.
With pieces like Rilke’s I find they filter down through your mind and continue to develop with one’s growing understanding of the words and the message.
An interesting site too - I haven’t had time to look through properly, but I shall.
February 13, 2008 at 7:06 pm
paula
and elizabethm - I forgot to say thanks for visiting and taking the time to leave a comment - in my haze I thought you were another elizabeth. So thanks.
February 13, 2008 at 7:07 pm
Mopsa
Wonderful magical tree. But oh, Paula, you were right. I’ve just come home to a phone message from Defra saying that we are now in a Bluetongue surveillance zone…as is the majority of England now it seems.
February 13, 2008 at 9:30 pm
paula
Mopsa - I know…I fear for our sheep.